When Strength Isn’t Enough, Technique Steps In — The Budget-Friendly Climbing Style
I was chatting with some bouldering buddies and made this analogy:
Imagine a difficulty climber and a boulderer go shopping together. They want to visit dozens of shops, each with a minimum spend requirement—some just a few bucks, others dozens or even hundreds.
The difficulty climber has $500 in their pocket. The boulderer has $1000.
The difficulty climber carefully spends just enough at each shop to hit the minimum, counting every penny, sometimes stopping to withdraw more cash from an ATM.
The boulderer usually shops at only a few mid-to-high-end stores and tends to spend more freely—throwing $50 or $100 around without much thought. This time, though, the boulderer ran out of money halfway through the street and had to call it a day.
The difference between bouldering and difficulty climbing styles shapes how climbers move.
Boulderers tend to be bolder, more explosive, using lots of upper body power, but sometimes with less economy in their movements.
Difficulty climbers may lose some raw explosive power but gain steadiness, better use of legs, and more efficient movement overall.
Top climbers aren’t just stronger—they switch styles seamlessly depending on the route. We can learn from that by exploring different climbing approaches and trying to adapt.
For the thrifty difficulty climbers, here are some tips to climb economically:
• Put weight on your feet
As the saying goes, “arms can’t beat legs.” Let your feet do more work to save your upper body energy.
• Start movements from your feet
Many upward moves are easier if your feet push your body up, while your hands pull you toward the wall—avoid swinging your hips out.
• Use dynamic moves instead of static locks when possible
Small controlled dynamic motions can save energy compared to locked, tense holds.
• Increase control
When moving toward your target hold, keep your force controlled—avoid overshooting and wasting energy fighting to stabilize afterward.
• Learn to rest smart
Resting methods like stemming, heel hooks, knee bars, or “mud grabs” can recharge your strength mid-climb. Practice different rests and learn what fits each route.
• Climb smoothly
Flow means quick, seamless moves with minimal wasted motion. The smoother you climb, the less energy you spend—especially important on steep overhangs.
• Refine your beta
Beta isn’t just how to solve a hard move—it’s also about grip details, force control, weight shifts, move sequences, pacing, and rest tactics.
Every route is never “done” — keep climbing it, tweaking your beta, and you’ll get better and more efficient.
• Record and compare
Film yourself climbing and study your moves. Compare with other climbers and your past self. Check out style analyses from pros like Bilibili’s Sen Qiu Cai channel.
Wishing you all to climb smarter, more efficiently, and more beautifully!
#sport #climbing #bouldering
